Ladies and gentlemen, hundreds of
tried and true drunks felt a quake in their bar flight patterns last Sunday
night.
It’s been talked about.
It’s been rumored.
But after the untimely death of
owner/proprietor Rocky Grecco, the day finally came that closed the doors of two
of the last great and true dive bars Williamsburg, Brooklyn will ever see again.
Sure, there’s 89 (and growing) bars
in the local Williamsburg area you can order a 12 dollar cocktail that has
something infused in it over a zinc bar bathed in a yellow ole-timey glow
reflecting off frosted mirrors. It will take forever to actually get your drink
(anything that has ‘artisan’ involved will always cost more and take a helluva
long time to get to your lips) and when it is served to you by the anorexic,
mustached, suspender wearing dude with no social skills, you will feel a slight
ache in your stomach when you hear other patrons in the bar asking questions
regarding ‘refreshing’ options and whether or not the ice is shaved or cubed.
This neighborhood, much like many
others in America (Silver Lake, Fullerton, Austin, Ashville, Portland, etc,
etc) has now fallen into some kind of couture culture for alcohol as much as it
has for every other good, simple thing (BBQ, ‘specialty’ pizza, the hot dog)
and some even say we here in the Burg started this nullifying trend. What we’re
seeing is bourgeois sensibilities creeping into everything that once stood for
solid entertainments.
Even bowling got fancy in the last
six years.
Two
of the last great heads were severed with the shuttering of The Subway Bar and
Cyn Lounge, two staples in my crews bar crawl repertoire.
Tears were shed.
A great shift had occurred.
As everyone who knows my
predilections for dangerous, dark, ultimately friendly bars where I can be left
alone and write in peace, these two spots, due to their suicide vibe, amazingly
charming bartender ladies, and the lawless free falls on random Tuesday
afternoons took the crown.
There’s other bars around that attempt
to match the magic: The Levee Bar, The Wreck Room out in Bushwick, the twin
sisters International Bar and Coal Yard on the isle of Manhattan. But none of
these could hold a candle to the Queen of all Dives: The Subway Bar.
In the future I will start a little
column of bonus adventures called The
Subway Series but today I will refrain. Like any great human being, it’s
best to keep quiet until the wake is over. Speak
in hushed tones. Wear black.
When I worked for the shotty,
horridly run Macri Park, I would get a flow of regulars come around the corner
of Union Ave, wide-eyed, rummy red face, shaking their head, explaining over a
Bud Light:
“I can’t hang out at Subway anymore.
I’m going crazy over there slowly,” they would explain before I had ever set
foot in there many years ago.
People have said: “Subway Bar is
where good dreams go to die.”
I was immediately intrigued.
One lucky afternoon I breached the threshold,
notepad and pen clutched in hand. Immediately the smell of smoke permeated the
place.
Yes, cigarettes.
Hints of marijuana.
Strange dark eyes, like animals in
the woods, gleamed up at me in the darkness. But no one said anything. The
bartender came over, a pretty girl with a foul mouth, and asked if I wanted a ‘special’.
Shot and a beer.
5 bucks.
I consumed my liquor quietly,
scribbling away in my notepad. As most new places I explore, I don’t say much
at first (a feat most people who know me consider plain impossible), I just
write, observe, make analysis.
But I couldn’t stay quiet long.
Engaged by the consummate conversationalists and easy on the eyes ladies Rocky
always hired, I found some of the best friends and associates I would ever
mingle with. We may all have come from different backgrounds, different races,
different religions and monetary statuses, but we all shared one important
thing.
We weren’t welcome other places—our
types.
We were the outlaws, saddling up to
the trough, the outsiders who felt strange when they sat down in a clean,
well-lighted place. These people did not want a cocktail, they wanted a fucking
PBR and a shot of Carstairs (don’t worry about it…) sitting pretty in the
valley of the shadow of death.
I’ve written hundreds of pages of
fiction in The Subway Bar (including some of these blogs). I wrote the second
act to my first play at Cyn Lounge, right after it was ‘remodeled’ from Rain
Lounge in the early 00’s.
I’ve met the Raven Haired Beauty (remember
her?) looking like a million bucks in a tight red mini-skirt some Monday night
at Subway arguing about Celine, and I also remember wiping blood off my sleeve
from the bar after a couple of scuffles that went south.
I’ve seen that steel bat get brandished
several times, never in my direction, and bought weeping grown men another
shot. I’ve fallen in love and I’ve argued with countless women there, I’ve
poured beer on myself, scripts, and other people within its halls, christening
us all together in some alcoholic baptism.
Yes, in life, we can be careful.
Yes, in life, we can be practical, but never do you know what color blood
really is until you open a vein, and these places were open wounds.
Anyone who complained about Subway
Bar I could never date.
Anyone who judged the fallen and broken
people actively walking a plank crushed by a cruel world, I would never associate
with.
And last Sunday, I sat there, Missy
bartending the last Subway Bar shift, and heard the fateful words: “Last Call!”
I raised myself from up from my
stool, screamed aloud a guttural howl to the rest of the rabble-rousers immersed
in smoke. We all stood and cheered like animals to last call in the last great dive
bar in Williamsburg.
Goodbye Subway and Cyn, you will be
missed by the worse of us.
Your feral cheerleaders in the game
that never ends.
Yep. 359 am October 8th, 2012.
Cheers to you.
Sincerely, The Help
I just wrote an eloquent elegy to the Subway, and when I tried to preview it, it went into the ether, just like the Subway. I loved that grimy place. I frequented it in the early 80s, and it was a wonderful sorter of people. Those who embraced its dark delights are dear friends thirty years since; those who ran in terror exited my life with equal haste, no regrets on either side. Great article!
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